Snapshots: Noodle Soups

Noodle soup weather is finally moving on — though to be fair, I eat bowlfuls of this stuff all year round, scorching summer months included. Here are four I recently slurped down to conquer this winter's never-ending cold.

Pho tai nam gan sach at Xe Lua
While this wasn't the best pho I've had, it certainly was the largest. The bigger-than-your-face bowl — with slices of raw beef, tripe and onions bobbing throughout — could easily feed two. It's a good option if you're downtown for jury duty and looking for a quick, filling lunch. 86 Mulberry St between Bayard and Canal Sts. (212-577-8887)

Beef hand-pulled noodle soup at Lao Bei Fang Dumpling House
"Dumpling" may be the in the name of this mom-and-pop operation, but the belly-warming niu rou shou la mian — brimming with brisket, bok choy and pliant hand-pulled noodles — is not to be missed. But if you really are craving juicy, meat-filled pockets, go for the fennel-flecked pork dumplings, instead of the typical pork-and-chive variety. 83-05 Broadway at Cornish Ave, Elmhurst, Queens (718-639-3996)

Spicy ramen at Totto Ramen
A new second outpost means double the chance at scoring a seat. The best perch is still at the blonde wood bar, where you can watch chefs torch fatty pieces of char siu for their rayu-slicked ramen. The crimson-colored chili oil definitely gives the bowl a bit of a kick, but not so much that you can't taste the deep chicken-based broth. 464 W. 51st St. between Ninth and Tenth Ave. (646-596-9056)

Chicken burdock dip soba at Cocoron
Dip, slurp, repeat. Burdock root gives this bubbling, meatball-studded broth an herbal edge, but doesn't overwhelm the light buckwheat flavor of the noodles. Remember not to leave the strands in there for too long or they'll lose that wonderful al dente snap. 37 Kenmare St. between Elizabeth and Mott Sts. (212-966-0800)