Mango Mango

Mochi at Mango Mango

Chinatown has seen quite a boom in Hong Kong-style dessert shops recently. But as with the few that have popped up in the past, I always approach with caution. Rarely have they done justice to Chinese desserts, especially tong sui (a traditional dessert soup that literally means "sugar water").

Mango Mango — a narrow, neon-hued spot on Bayard St — is no exception. I wasn't impressed by the two items I picked up on my way home to Brooklyn. While the mango-milk pudding had a smooth, creamy consistency, it was very one-note in terms of flavor. The mango mochi had the opposite problem — it was far too chewy and gelatinous, lacking the wonderful, slightly tacky texture of good law mai chi.

It looks like I'll be sticking with nearby Indessert for my tong sui fix — there's good reason why I chose their fragrant and refreshing mango-pomelo sago as one of my favorite dishes of the year.

Mango Mango, 63 Bayard St. between Elizabeth and Mott Sts. (646-422-7576)
Indessert, 1 E. Broadway between Catherine and Oliver Sts. (212-528-3188)