Chinatown has seen quite a boom in Hong Kong-style dessert shops recently. But as with the few that have popped up in the past, I always approach with caution. Rarely have they done justice to Chinese desserts, especially tong sui (a traditional dessert soup that literally means "sugar water").
Mango Mango — a narrow, neon-hued spot on Bayard St — is no exception. I wasn't impressed by the two items I picked up on my way home to Brooklyn. While the mango-milk pudding had a smooth, creamy consistency, it was very one-note in terms of flavor. The mango mochi had the opposite problem — it was far too chewy and gelatinous, lacking the wonderful, slightly tacky texture of good law mai chi.