Bakery Lorraine: A Taste of France in Texas

Grapefruit tiramisu

Grapefruit tiramisu

There are some things you expect to be amazing in Texas, like smoky, melt-in-your-mouth brisket and hearty, belly-busting Tex-Mex. But dainty French macarons? Flaky, orange-scented morning buns? That's not what usually comes to mind.

So imagine my surprise when I stumbled upon Bakery Lorraine, a cozy French-American sweets shop hidden from the hustle and bustle of the Riverwalk by two criss-crossing highways. During a week-long stay in the San Antonio-Austin area, we briefly became regulars, stopping by in the morning for breakfast, then again in the afternoon for a much-needed pick-me-up.

Chocolate cream pie

Chocolate cream pie

Our favorite of the bunch was the chocolate cream pie, a mound of velvety cocoa custard and airy whipped cream piled in a chocolate-lined shell and topped with pearls of chocolate crunchies. Every spoonful was cool and creamy — and reminded me oh-so-fondly of the chocolate haupia pie from Ted's Bakery that I've not-so-jokingly claimed as my future wedding, er, pie.

Tiramisu and French toast macarons

Tiramisu and French toast macarons

Macarons always flew quickly out of the display case and by late afternoon, there was often few in sight. So what does one do to get a taste? Have them for breakfast, of course.

The selection rotates daily — highlighting seasonal ingredients like lemon and black currant — and I went with two of the richer ones available that day: tiramisu and French toast. The light-as-air shells were crackly, the buttercream was silky and both were balanced in flavor — the tiramisu had a surprise dab of chocolate ganache in the center, while the French toast boasted light hints of cinnamon.

Orange cardamom morning bun

Orange cardamom morning bun

Who exactly is turning out top-notch baked goods in such an unexpected place? Husband-and-wife team Jeremy Mandrell and Anne Ng, both alums of Thomas Keller's Bouchon Bakery. When I finally read up on the two, it suddenly made sense why the focus on tarts and macarons seemed a bit familiar (Bouchon's chocolate tart is one of my favorite rough day cure-alls). But it's also clear from the steady stream of customers filling up box after box of macs and the positive local media attention — not to mention a shout-out on CNN's Eatocracy — that the duo have put their own mark on the pastry world. Now, if only they would open up an outpost in New York City — I'd happily become a permanent regular.

Bakery Lorraine, 511 E. Grayson St., San Antonio, Texas (210-862-5582)

Ladurée Soho

Religieuse pistache at Ladurée Soho

Being the sweets-addicted fool I am, I made a trip to Ladurée's new Soho location last Friday — yes, Valentine's Day — to pick up some treats. There was, of course, a line of shoppers picking up what I presume were last-minute gifts and for a brief moment, I considered jumping on the subway back to Brooklyn, dessert-less. But the glistening pastry case and macaron trees already had me under their spell, so I stuck around and — with much self-control — left with a pistachio religieuse and only two macarons.

Rose petal and orange blossom macarons at Ladurée Soho

I went with the floral flavors — orange blossom and rose petal — and both were top-notch, with thin, crisp shells and a silky, lightly perfumed ganache. But the main purpose of my visit was to check out the pastries, available for the first time in New York City. By the time I got there, they were already out of the Valentine's Day-appropriate rose St. Honoré, but the pistachio religieuse was a delicious consolation prize — nutty and beautifully put together, it left me wishing that I got the caramel version, too.

Ladurée Soho

Ladurée Soho, 398 West Broadway between Broome and Spring Sts. (646-392-7868)

Macaron Cafe

Macarons at Macaron Cafe

These tiny French cookies have become somewhat of a guilty pleasure at my house ever since I introduced them to the family during the holidays. So when a friend gave us this box from Macaron Cafe, everyone was excited to dig in. They're not the best we've had — a tad too chewy and light on flavor — and my favorite remains the Earl Grey from Macaron Parlour. (the boyfriend, on the other hand, still craves the Cherry Cordial from Dana's Bakery, a Valentine's Day special that's sadly no longer available.)

Of course, most people turn to the king of macarons — Ladurée — for their fix, but there's something about buying from and getting to know Christina and Simon (the adorable couple behind Macaron Parlour), and Dana (a photo editor-turned-baker), that makes their not-so-typical macs extra addictive.

Macaron Cafe, 625 Madison Ave. at E. 58th St. (212) 486-2470.